Sunday, December 14, 2014

Final Quebecophile Post: Montreal Mementos



Montreal Mementos

Greetings readers, it’s been too long since I last posted, but as the holidays creep up (They’re here!), and my last week rolls up (yes, last week in Quebec starts tomorrow), time is flying as if Joni Mitchell’s wish came true and she’s skating down that proverbial river.

We finally made it to Quebec City and spent last weekend in Old Quebec, the romantic old-world, walled city along the river, home of Chateau Frontenac (we didn’t stay there) an old-world hotel the size of a castle, and I mean literally that size. There were wonderfully Holiday-lit streets, lined with shops, bistros and restaurants, an unusual outdoor market in the square where vendors had little wooden shacks, about the size of a double-wide ice fishing hut, from which to offer their goods. There was also a custom light show on the side of two different buildings, illuminating based on the codes entered at control point by anyone interested in seeing them. Very clever. 

Along snowy Rue Petite Champlain in Old Port, Quebec City
We enjoyed some fine food, fine walks, and fine scenery, especially just outside of Old Quebec when we walked a park built on the Plains of Abraham. The Plains of Abraham is a famous site for the last battle between France and England which settled, for now, who was in control of Canada. The English won. Ironically, in this most quintessential of French-Canadian cities - where 95% of population speaks French as a first tongue - there is a major park and historic site based on the success of the English. Another highlight from Quebec City was seeing dozens of bronze statues, in squares and parks, on public and private buildings, and at street corners – including busts of Winton Churchill and Gandhi. The early Quebec historic figures statues looked like characters from the Three Musketeers, and others were posed as grand orators, preaching the good word of life in Quebec.
                                                                                                                         
Alas, we are counting our blessings and mementos. Blessings for having had such a good six months here in Quebec, and mementos for all the memories and trinkets we’ll return with to Nebraska – provided we can fit everything in the car for the return trip. It was full coming here, so something’s got to give.

Here is a short list of our highlights of everyday life here in Montreal, or more locally in Ste-Anne-de-Bellevue where we spent the summer and Beaurepaire where we’ve lived since mid-August. This is not the memento list of touring and sightseeing, but the domestic list, what made our lives fun, unique, and “Quebecois”.

Tom’s List of three:

Regular trips to the Ste Anne’s Farmers Market. This market was held outside along the river boardwalk until November 11, then in Ste George’s Church basement after that. Being a life-long Lutheran I like most things that happen in church basements. I met my beekeeper friend here, William Golding, who I talked and visited with about his beekeeping. To give you just a bit of insight into William, he does not have an email account and still has rabbit ears on his TV.

Typical market goods. The bricks in front are soap, not cheese.
Biking and Walking to Macdonald Campus. Since we moved to Beaurepaire in August I was able to bike to and from the Macdonald Campus where I worked. It was great to bike along the fleuve (St. Lawrence River) in the morning and evening. I wrote a couple poems about the experience which FB friends have seen. More may be in the works. Busing to and walking 50 minutes home was the routine once biking season ended. The fall color change made this walk exceptional.

Saint Lawrence in the fall with Canada Geese, go figure.
Om West Yoga Studio. I have to recognize my good fortune to find a great bunch of folks, owners, teachers, massage “artists” at Om West Centre in Point Claire, just a 10 minute drive away. The owner’s name is Antoine, which here is pronounced like “Ann-twuan.”  After taking one of his classes I renamed him “Ab-twuan” for the rigorous abdominals exercise he led. My favorite teachers were Mirabai for Sivananda yoga and Renee for restorative yoga.

Marti’s list of three:

Her bicycle. If anyone heard her talk about the bicycle she bought here, and used to practically circumnavigate the island, you’d thing she was describing her first car. We almost had to haul it back to Lincoln (wait, we haven’t left yet, she still could….). Marti spent countless hours and miles exploring this biker’s paradise here on the West Island. Montreal really caters to bike riders.

Local Yarn Shop, “Le Coin Artisanal”.  Marti did a load of knitting while here in Montreal, most of it while on her bicycle…well, not really. Once bike season ended knitting began. A local Yarn artist shop in Beaurepaire is only a ten minute walk away. There she weekly spent mornings and/or evenings knitting and visiting with local natives, and even some women from England who were here and frequenting the shop. She loved learning about life from this group, as well as stepping around their shop dog, a Great Dane named Becky who is a rescued dog, and is as mellow and soft as a Great Skein of canine yarn.

The sun room. In the house we live in there is a large sun room off the kitchen, which is an extension of the kitchen and creates the outdoors indoors. There is room enough for a couch, two lounge chairs and a table with four chairs, so it is sizable. The sun and moon coming in made for great atmosphere, and the autumn changes in the yard could be viewed as if they were there within your house. She spent countless hours there knitting and doing bike repairs. Did I say she really, really liked her bike.

Marti recently communicated to a friend electronically, who is a live-long Canadian, but has traveled a lot in the US. She told him it was wonderful to be here because of all the great people we met, there are good people everywhere. Just stop listening to the news and the politicians and then you can notice these people (that last sentence was my editorial). I would have to agree that our time in Quebec, while highlighted by tours and sightseeing and festivals, was really made enjoyable by the folks I worked with at the university and the folks we interacted with in our domestic lives. Canada is full of wonderful, kind, polite, and caring people (just don’t talk to politicians and newsmen).

Only in Quebec for a while yet, so my Quebecophile blog may not get any more posts, unless I do a post-Quebec ramble. Thanks for reading and sharing in our adventure.

Boone Journee,
Tom

Thursday, October 9, 2014

Bonus Blog: Marti's Montreal Must See Memoir - Laurentians in the Fall - Post M2


Here is Marti’s account of our "must see" trip to Mont-Tremblant National Park


Laurentians in the Fall

"You HAVE to drive up to the Laurentians in the Fall!"  We've heard this since the first day we arrived in Montreal.  Now I know why....

The weather here this weekend was a glorious hit of Indian Summer - mid 70's and sunny. Time to get out of the city and see what was going in the oft-mentioned Laurentians, 135 km (85 miles) north of here. Our backyard trees have started turning, but the fall color is not quite peak in Montreal yet. The trees have announced football season: red maples saying, 'Go Big Red!' - green and gold birch chanting, 'Go Pack Go!' We figured it would be about the same at Mont Tremblant, the favored Laurentian Mountain place to color-gawk for 'Montrealais'.

The Saturday morning drive up was crazy busy - the drivers here are very courteous (Canada Nice compared to Denver Crazy) but the shear volume of cars on the lone highway headed north out of Montreal made for a very sloooow drive.  It seems everyone in Montreal had the same idea....but it was okay since that gave me (the driver) an opportunity to take in the spectacular views. It turns out that it was the PEAK color weekend in the mountains.
 

Once we got to 'Parc national du Mont Tremblant', we sat by a lake and ate part of our lunch while we planned our day. This Parc is Quebec's version of Glacier National Park - a gem in the province.....and very popular.  We found the trail we wanted to hike (along with a gazillion of our new best friends) and started the 3.5 km ascent to an observation look-out. It's a very well used trail - a hiking highway sporting all manner of footwear - hiking boots, hiking shoes, tennis shoes, sandals, fashion boots with heels (ouch), loafers, flip flops.....  "Bonjour...Bonjour....Bonjour".  The trail is a constant ascent with several resting spots/benches along the way.  Most benches had people taking a 'blow' - and some taking a smoke break, which we found ironic.....'if you didn't smoke, you might not need to stop to catch your breath!'  It was not a quiet walk in the woods - urban hikers like to chatter and make a lot of noise...but the beauty of the landscape won the day.

We were rewarded at the end of the trail with a view that was breathtaking - not from the ascent (or from smoking), but from the beauty. It is almost beyond words.....it looks like an exaggerated 'Bob Ross' oil painting; Alizarin crimson, Cadmium red, Viridian green, Indian yellow, dark Sienna.....



We spent time at the observation deck overlooking the lake and the surrounding mountains, taking pictures of the vistas and a few selfies..... and photo bombing other people's selfies.  When we'd soaked it in, we headed back down and took off on a much less traversed trail.  We only met a handful of people for the next 2 hours and it was wonderful...except we missed an unexpected turn. That could be why we only saw a few other people! We wanted to hike to Poisson Lac (Fish Lake) to see a waterfall but we missed the sign to turn left.  The hike was to be just over 2 km, but we walked and walked....and walked when finally Tom said, 'This is a lot longer than 2 km'.  We decided it was time to consult our $3 map and realized that there was a split in the trail (opps) and we were on the wrong side of the lake (opps) and we had hiked twice as far as we should have (all uphill - opps). So, we sat down on a moss covered stump and ate the 2nd half of our lunch in the waning sun before we turned around and headed back to the chatter.



We didn't get to the waterfall, but we saw a lot of other things we would have missed if we'd read the map: a huge rock wall covered with a variety of moss, trees growing out of rocks, the lowering sun shining on the striking colors of the hillside across the lake. We heard sounds we never would have heard if we'd been on the well traveled trail: a babbling brook (yes, brooks really do babble), birds announcing our presence, red squirrels on alert, water endlessly dripping off rock walls.... leaves falling.  It was a great day. And if you ever get to Montreal, you HAVE to drive up to the Laurentians in the Fall!
  

Wednesday, October 8, 2014

Three Montreal Must Sees: Mount Royal, Garden of Lights, Laurentian Mountains Fall Color - Post 5



Well, folks, you had to wait as long for this next blog post as I did to complete my trifecta of Montreal Must Sees. Ever since we arrived here, the top three “must see” experiences we were told about were:

        1. Viewing Montreal from atop Mount Royal, the highest peak in the city located virtually in the city center
     2. The Garden of Lights in the Chinese Garden at the Botanical Garden 
     3. The autumn colors in the Laurentian Mountains north of Montreal


 It was only last weekend I finally hiked to the top of Mount Royal – completing my triple. Marti’s been up top three or four times, including a hike up with our good friends, Jay and Patt Niebur, who visited us for a week in September. They also toured the Chinese Garden of Lights with us the week it opened in September. Two out of three ain’t bad. Lucky for me, Marti and I had a perfect day to day-hike in Mont-Tremblant National Park, when the autumn colors were at their peak. 
 Below is some of our photos, and borrowed information from various websites about the Garden of Lights, including Moon Cakes, which we had a taste of washed down with Jasmine Tea, and Mount Royal City Park, with a connection to Central Park in New York City. The story of our visit to Mont-Tremblant National Park will follow in a Bonus Blog. Two out of three ain’t bad. Enjoy, we did.


Garden of Lights

The Montreal Botanical Garden's annual Gardens of Light event coincides with one of China's favorite fests, the Moon Festival, a harvest season celebration that features lotus seed paste filled cakes otherwise known as Moon Cakes AND...lanterns. Hundreds of intricately constructed lanterns, some in the shape of animals, vehicles and even people are part and parcel of the Moon Festival.


Chinese Treasure Boat Lanterns


The lanterns in the Montreal Chinese Garden are constructed in Shanghai based on the theme and designs of Montreal artistic designer My Quynh Duong. (This year’s theme was the voyage of the Chinese Treasure Fleet http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chinese_treasure_ship) Once built in Shanghai, they're shipped to Canada where it takes a team of local assemblers about three months to mount anywhere from 900 to 1,000 lanterns on garden grounds. Roughly 200 of those lanterns are newly crafted every year.

Snow Lantern in Japanese Garden
Light on trees in Japanese Garden

For 19 years, the annual attraction was called Magic of Lanterns or La Magie des lanternes. But in 2012, the name changed to Gardens of Light, ostensibly marking the addition of the Japanese Garden to the fold. Previously, only the Chinese Garden and its brigade of lanterns were featured. Ever since that debut, the Japanese Garden has stayed true to original form, proposing a multicolored lighting scheme that brings the darkened garden to life after the sun sets. It's a different concept and more subtle and subdued setup from the lanterns, adding a touch of Zen to the overall experience.

Tom, Marti, Patti, Jay
Chinese Garden pond in daylight.

Mount Royal City Park

The jewel of Montreal’s city parks is, without question, Mount Royal. This 200-hectare park occupies part of the mountain that lies in the midst of Montreal Island, and includes the highest spot in the city (234m). 



In the 1860s, mass cutting of trees on the mountain for firewood outraged the populace and led to the area’s designation as a park in 1876. It was originally landscaped by Frederick Law Olmsted, perhaps best known for New York City’s Central Park, although not all his proposed plans for Mount Royal were carried out.

The lookout facing over downtown towards the river was first built in 1906 and is now officially known as the Belvédère Kondiaronk, named for the Huron Chief who signed a major peace accord with the French regime in 1701. A second lookout, a famous trysting spot, faces eastward toward the Olympic Stadium.
 Could this be famous trysting spot?

Fall color in Mount Royal Park beautifies engineering project...yes, Dave S., I am working here.

Paul Chomedey de Maisonneuve, the city's founder, erected the first cross on Mount Royal in 1643, thereby fulfilling his vow to the Virgin Mary in his prayers to end a disastrous flood.  The modern cross has been illuminated since 1924. The current cross stands 31.4 m (103 ft) tall. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mount_Royal_Cross 

Bonne Journee,
Tom

Wednesday, August 20, 2014

Old Macdonald Had a Farm - Post 4


I can’t keep pace with Marti’s Montreal Memoirs, so won’t even try. This week’s blog is a history lesson (lots of photos!).

As some of you know, we moved out of our small, on-campus residence hall apartment last week into a spacious five-bedroom home in the small village of Beaurepaire (pronounced “Bo repair”), only a 10 minute drive, or 20 minute bike ride from campus. More on that later.


Before sharing about our new location I should first review the last location, the McGill Macdonald Campus and campus of John Abbott College. Yes, there are two colleges co-located here. AUTHOR’S WARNING: Those of you not too interested in  history, etc. can look at the pictures provided and skim the text (just like when you were in college), and hope I post another Marti’s Montreal Memoirs Bonus Blog soon.

Until 1971 McGill Macdonald Campus was known as Macdonald College. Sir William Macdonald, born 1831 on Prince Edward Island – died 1917, was a Scots-Quebecer tobacco merchant and major education philanthropist in Canada. He made his fortune during the U.S. Civil War with tobacco shipped to Canada from the Southern States by selling it to the Northern States. He contributed vast amounts of his tobacco fortune to McGill University, paying for many buildings, even paying faculty salaries during a time of low budgets. Hello, Warren Buffett.

He is particularly close to my heart because, when the university's engineering building burned down - which he had originally paid to build - Macdonald paid the costs to rebuild it.

In 1904 Macdonald made his largest gift and purchased three farm properties in an area on the western end of Montreal Island known as Sainte-Anne-de-Bellevue. On the 300 acres he planned and built Macdonald College, an agriculture training institute. Hello, East Campus, UNL.

Constructed in 1905-06 and opened in the fall of 1907, the facility's entire construction and furnishing costs were funded by Macdonald, who also provided a $2 million operating endowment. Hello, 2014 dollars.

Named President and Chancellor of McGill University in early 1914, Macdonald also provided funding to create McGill University College of British Columbia which ultimately became the University of British Columbia. (background information courtesy or Wikipedia)
Selfie with Sir William Macdonald
Former Macdonald College center piece building

Building of John Abbott College

There you have the history of one campus I was living on, and the following is the modern history of that same campus. While the university here is called McGill Macdonald Campus, it is really not located in the original facilities of the former Macdonald College. Stay with me here.

Those buildings (see pictures) are now used by John Abbott College, a junior-college-type public college that post-high school students are required to attend here in Quebec. There are eight English speaking and many French speaking colleges. Started in the 1960's it is a unique system, even for Canadian provinces. After high school, all students spend two years getting either a technical school degree or a university preparation degree. If they choose the university path they then register for university, which is only three more years. Hello, increased graduation rates.
Facilities of John Abbott College
First modern building on John Abbott campus. First opened for 2013-2014 school year.

This public subsidized college has little or no tuition fee – it’s about $200 per year, yes, per year. (financial background for tuition cost courtesy of a former teacher at John Abbott who now sells hand-crafted soap at the Ste. Anne Farmer’s Market – in her retirement.)

That’s it. If you are still awake I can share with you the one inside story I know about Sir
William Macdonald. He was a life-long bachelor, however, when he died he left a large portion of this fortune to his secretary’s wife. Yes, to the secretary's wife. Macdonald’s personal secretary, as was common in the 19th Century, was male. Macdonald left the fortune to the secretary’s wife, which in today’s scandal-mongering culture, raises some eyebrows. A portrait of the secretary’s wife hangs in the break room in the Bioresource Engineering Department where I am working, not in the Dean’s office.

Bonne Journee,
Tom
The wife of Sir William Macdonald's personal secretary.
 
Memorial hutch to Sir William Macdonald housed in Macdonald-Stewart Hall where I am working. Includes his top hat, gold watch, Knighthood Medal, and more.